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Beginner's Guide To Using A Sex Doll: Tips For Your First Few Weeks
Your first doll is either in the house already or else due any day now. Unbox a 35 kg silicone human in your living space and there's a moment of slight panic as you stare at her and think: now what? This guide is the solution to that question. Expect real-world pointers only: what you will truly need in the opening week and what will save you from costly slip-ups in month one, with zero fluff and no presumption that you already know. Read it once before she arrives and once again afterwards, as the repeat pass will make significantly more sense and you will catch things you glossed over the first time.
It pays to do a few things before you even open the package, as shifting her about becomes considerably harder once she's out of it. Decide exactly where she's going to live, and "somewhere in the bedroom" does not count, so pick a specific area like a wardrobe, a corner, or a storage package. Dolls are weighty and unwieldy, and you won't wish to be improvising storage at 11 at night with an unclothed doll in your arms. Whether she'll rest on a bed, floor, or storage container, obvious the space and examine it is clean and free of anything that could transfer dye, as dark-toned blankets, poorly dyed fabrics, and anything that might release dye are risky. If you've got carpet, lay something smooth underneath her. Any low bed can sag under her weight with time, so check it will not.
Get your supplies ready before she arrives:
1. Baby powder or cornstarch (for TPE dolls)
2. A blow-dryer (for easing joints)
3. A spotless, light-coloured cloth (for the material check)
4. A coarse-toothed wig comb (not a regular hairbrush)
5. Drying stands (for the orifices)
6. Mineral oil formulated for TPE (where it applies)
7. A soft cosmetic brush (for powdering)
It is all cheap, but every bit of it matters. Maybe £20 pays for the full kit, and it's the distinction between a doll that stays in top condition and one that doesn't. Open the package with care as opposed to tearing into it, and if the box is damaged, image it before you open it, as that is your only safeguard for a guarantee claim. Inspect her quickly once the box is open: look for splits in the armpits and groin, verify all fingers are in one piece, and verify the head sculpt matches the order you placed. Get in touch with the vendor before you do anything else if something's wrong, and image it straight away, as a claim gets much harder once the doll has been used or repositioned.
Nearly every new buyer is taken by surprise by the next aspect: she will feel rigid. Tight joints are totally regular straight from the factory and do not mean something is broken. The joints need limbering up before you can pose her, and the technique is easy. Soften the TPE at each joint with a blow-dryer on a gentle setting, not hot, after that slowly move each joint through its complete range of movement, working through the neck, shoulders, elbows, wrists, hips, knees, and ankles. If a joint will not move, warm it more, and never force anything. Spend an entire hour on this. It sounds excessive, but it's what separates a doll you will in fact pose from one that ends up frozen in one pose seeing as you gave up.
She's weightier than she looks, which surprises everyone. A 35 kg doll doesn't seem that hefty until you're lifting her from a low position and the load is concentrated in the wrong places, so use correct lifting technique, squatting down and lifting with your legs instead of your back. Keep her close to your body by gripping under the armpits and hugging her when you can, because the closer she is to your centre of balance, the less pressure you will feel. She's also warmer than you anticipate, seeing as TPE and silicone both hold heat pretty well, and the first time you feel her sensibly she'll feel less plastic than you were likely expecting. The chief reason people say their dolls feel alive isn't movement or AI, it's that the cloth genuinely yields to feel in a manner that takes you by surprise.
You will need to powder her often, as TPE gets sticky in time, especially in summer heat or after cleansing, and a fine dusting of cornstarch or baby powder applied with a soft make-up brush holds the exterior smooth and clean, so do this after each cleansing session. Occasional oiling is also needed, as TPE sheds oil in time, and a tiny amount of mineral oil formulated especially for TPE dolls every three months or so holds the material soft and prevents cracks, though excess oil makes the finish oily and picks up dust faster than dry skin does, so do not go overboard.
Believe of cleansing as a process, not a one-off. After use:
1. Pull out any inserts and wash them on their own
2. Wash the orifice areas using warm water and gentle cleanser
3. Dry everything well with drying stands (fifteen to twenty minutes)
4. Powder the exterior with cornstarch or baby powder
5. Keep her the right way
This aspect isn't optional: skip it and mould will be forming inside her in as little as a few weeks. At close to 45 minutes the entire process takes longer than the majority of people expect, which is the key reason veteran owners switch to detachable inserts, which cut that time approximately in half.
This is where novice owners make the classic slip-up, seeing as they do not think about storage until it's a difficulty. Most veteran owners hang their dolls, using a heavy-duty overhead hook rated for at least 60 kg with a dedicated loop, which holds her in one pose without putting stress on the joints. Storing her lying down works too, but be careful: smooth surfaces are fine and bumpy ones aren't, and leaving her on her back for long stretches can flatten the buttocks or breasts, so vary the position now and after that. UV damages both TPE and silicone and bleaches wigs and tinted details fast, so never leave her in strong sunlight, and use a wardrobe or a covered storage box.
The internet has a lot of opinions about owning dolls, most of which are incorrect or overblown. She's not made of glass, so there's no need to be "careful" in the sense of fussing over her: yes, she's weighty and her joints need care, but she's also designed to be used. There's no need to be ashamed: huge numbers of people own sex dolls, the market has expanded tremendously in the past decade, and the taboo has faded rapidly, so owning one is a personal decision and not a flaw in character.
Treating her like a person isn't a requirement either. Plenty of owners build detailed characters and personalities for their dolls, which is great and aspect of the appeal for many people, but it is optional, and wanting a doll for bodily pleasure and companionship without the roleplay is a totally valid way to use one. The only thing you genuinely need to get right is the day-to-day side, as everything else is individual taste and nobody else gets to decide on how you use something you purchased.
My procedure, if it helps, is uncomplicated, and every owner develops their own. Before each session, ease the joints, not for the whole hour of the first time but for just a couple of minutes to be sure nothing is rigid, and powder following every clean no matter what. Run the dye test on any new clothing even if you've used the same brand before, keep an extra wig within reach as synthetic hair takes longer to dry than you'd expect and you do not would like to be waiting, and put away her with care every time. It is not complex, just the regime that maintains your doll in good condition for a long time instead of months.
Most of what you have to know will come from your first month, and the errors you make early tend to be inexpensive ones if you take care. Difficulties that show up later are the pricey ones, and they nearly always stem from something skipped in the first couple of weeks. A joint freed up too aggressively, a cloth tested on the doll as opposed to a cloth, a storage method that looked okay until the pressure sunk into it. Slow down at the start and the rest takes attention of itself.
You will also need to know what to do when something eventually goes wrong, as it will. A tear in the armpit, a loose joint, a dye mark that will not come out. The instinct is to panic and assume the doll is wrecked, but practically everything short of a broken frame is fixable if you spot it early. TPE mending kits cost very little and handle tiny splits. Tightening or replacing loose joints is possible. Dye marks won't come out, and that is why the fabric try matters so much. Work out where the fixable issues are and quit worrying about the ones that aren't.
A doll is a significant investment and it deserves careful handling, but "serious" does not mean "difficult." You will get years out of her if you free up the joints, powder her often, and put away her sensibly, but if you skip those things you will be replacing her considerably sooner than you expected. The opening week is the hardest, and after that it becomes habit. More info at this rosslink. Also check out https://lorinacosmetics.com.ua/index.php?topic=524.new - helpful hints for more.
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