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Beginner's Guide To Using A Sex Doll: Tips For Your First Few Weeks
So you've purchased your first doll, or you're just about to. Either way, there's a brief spell of mild panic as you unbox a 35kg silicone human, find yourself standing in the living space, and wonder: now what? The answer to that question is what follows here. No fluff and no assumption that you already know what you're doing, just the real-world basics you will truly need in the opening week plus the things that will save you from costly missteps in the opening month. Read it twice: once before she arrives and once again after, as the second read makes much more sense and helps you area things you missed first time round.
Before you so much as open the box, a few things are worth doing, as once she's out of the package, getting her around becomes much harder. Settle exactly where she's going to live, and "somewhere in the bedroom" does not count, so pick a specific place like a cupboard, a corner, or a carry case. Seeing as dolls are weighty and unwieldy, improvising storage at 11pm with an unclothed doll in your arms is something you definitely would like to steer clear of. Whether she'll rest on a bed, floor, or storage container, prepare the space and be sure it is clean and free of anything that could transfer dye, as dark blankets, poorly dyed fabrics, and anything that might release dye are a risk. On carpet, put something smooth underneath her. On a low bed, verify that it will not droop under her load in time.
Have your supplies ready before she arrives:
1. Cornstarch or baby powder (for TPE dolls)
2. A blow-dryer (for freeing up joints)
3. A clean, pale cloth (for the dye check)
4. A wide-toothed wig comb (not a regular hairbrush)
5. Drying rods (for the openings)
6. Mineral oil formulated for TPE (if applicable)
7. A soft make-up brush (for powdering)
None of this is costly, but all of it matters. The full kit will come to maybe £20 and it is the distinction among a doll that stays in great condition and one that does not. Unpack the package with care as opposed to tearing into it, and if the package is damaged, take pictures of it before you open it, as that is your only cover for a warranty case. Inspect her quickly once the package is open: look for splits in the armpits and groin, check that all fingers are in one piece, and verify the head sculpt matches what you bought. If you area a concern, picture it straight away and speak to the vendor before you do anything else, as a claim gets much harder once the doll has been used or repositioned.
The part that catches virtually every first-time buyer off guard comes next: she will feel rigid. The joints are tight from the factory, which is entirely regular and does not mean something is broken. The joints need limbering up before you can pose her, and the technique is straightforward. Set a blow-dryer to warm, not hot, and soften the TPE at each joint, next steadily move each joint through its complete range of movement, working through the neck, shoulders, elbows, wrists, hips, knees, and ankles. Never force anything, and if a joint will not move, warm it more. Spend an entire hour on this. It sounds excessive, but it is the distinction between a doll you will really pose and a doll that ends up stuck in the same pose seeing as you gave up.
Everyone is caught out by how bulky she is compared with how she looks. Up to the point you lift her from a low position with the pressure concentrated in the wrong places, a 35 kg doll does not seem that weighty, so use correct lifting technique, squatting down and lifting with your legs rather than your back. When you can, hug her, gripping under the armpits and keeping her close to your body, as the closer she is to your centre of mass, the less load you'll feel. She's also warmer than you'd anticipate, as TPE and silicone both hold heat fairly well, and the first time you touch her correctly she'll feel less plastic than you were probably expecting. The chief reason people say their dolls feel alive isn't movement or AI, it is that the cloth truly yields to feel in a manner that catches you off guard.
You have to powder her on a regular basis, seeing as TPE gets sticky in time, especially in hot weather or after cleansing, and a light layer of cornstarch or baby powder applied with a soft cosmetic brush holds the finish smooth and clean, so do this after each cleansing session. TPE sheds oil with time and needs replenishment, so oil her every so often: a light coat of mineral oil formulated especially for TPE dolls a few times a year keeps the cloth soft and prevents drying out, but do not use too much, as too much oil makes the skin oily and gathers dust faster than parched skin does.
Consider of cleansing as a process, not a one-off. After use:
1. Take out any inserts and wash them separately
2. Wash the orifice areas in warm water and gentle cleanser
3. Dry everything well with drying stands (fifteen to twenty minutes)
4. Powder the exterior with cornstarch or baby powder
5. Put away her attentively
This isn't optional, since skip it and you'll get mould forming inside her in a matter of weeks. Many people expect it to be quicker, but the complete regime takes close to 45 minutes, and that is the key reason old hands switch to detachable inserts, which cut that time more or less in half.
The costliest misstep new owners make is not thinking about storage until it is a difficulty. The best method is hanging, with a heavy-duty hanging hook rated for at least 60 kg and a dedicated loop, which holds her in the same position without putting stress on the joints, and it is the one most veteran owners use. You can store her lying down as well, but take attention: even surfaces are fine and uneven ones aren't, and long stretches on her back can flatten the buttocks or breasts, so vary the position now and next. UV damages both TPE and silicone and fades wigs and painted details fast, so never leave her in bright sunlight, and keep her in a cabinet or a covered carry case.
Most of the countless opinions the internet has about owning dolls are false or overstated. Yes, she's weighty and her joints need maintenance, but you shouldn't feel you have to be "careful" in the sense of fussing over her, as she's designed to be used and she's not made of glass. Embarrassment isn't needed, as millions of owners own sex dolls, the industry has grown tremendously in the past ten years, and the taboo has faded rapidly, which makes owning one a private choice and not a flaw in character.
There's no need to treat her like a person either. Certain owners build complex characters and personas for their dolls, which is great and aspect of the appeal for many people, but you do not have to, and if you just wish a doll for physical enjoyment and companionship without the roleplay, that is a totally valid way to use one. The only thing you genuinely need to get right is the everyday side, since everything else is personal taste and nobody else has a say on how you use something you own.
Every owner develops their own process, and mine for whatever it is worth is uncomplicated. Prior to every session, free up the joints, not for a solid hour of the first time but for just a couple of minutes to check that nothing is rigid, and powder at the end of every clean without exception. Run the material test on any new outfits even if you've used the same brand before, keep an extra wig ready seeing as synthetic hair takes longer to dry off than you'd anticipate and you do not wish to be waiting, and keep her correctly every time. Nothing here is complex, it is simply the regime that holds your doll in good condition for a long time as opposed to months.
Month one teaches you the majority of what you must know, and early slip-ups tend to be cheap ones when you're careful. Issues that show up later are the costly ones, and they virtually always originate in something skipped in the opening weeks. Consider of a joint limbered up too aggressively, a cloth tested on the doll in place of a cloth, or a storage solution that looked okay until the load bedded into it. Take it slowly at the start and the rest takes attention of itself.
You will also need to know what to do when something eventually goes wrong, as it will. Maybe a tear in the armpit, a loose joint, or a dye mark that will not come out. Panicking and assuming the doll is beyond saving is the instinct, but practically everything short of a broken frame is fixable if you deal with it early. Tiny rips are handled by TPE repair packs, which cost very little. Tightening or replacing loose joints is possible. The one thing that does not come out is dye marks, this is why the cloth test is so important. Work out where the fixable issues are and stop worrying about the ones that aren't.
A doll is a significant investment that deserves careful handling, but "serious" does not mean "difficult." Skip easing the joints, regular powdering, and right storage and you will be replacing her considerably sooner than you expected, but do them and you will get years out of her. Week one is the hardest, and after that it becomes routine. More info at this rosslink. Also check out https://anchen.com.ua/index.php?topic=562.new - click this link bearing in mind https://thesolowargamer.com/showthread.php?tid=7790 - more help and http://pipo.com.ua/forum/index.php?showtopic=29926 - try these out for more.
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